Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Introducing my new BFF in Quito
Conquering the Cotopaxi (well, almost)
The day we chose to climb up to the refuge at the base of the Cotopaxi volcano glacier was not the best one. It was very cloudy and rather cold, but the worse thing was that as soon as we started the ascend it started to snow (not to mention the strong winds). This time we were better equipped (apart from our trousers), so it wasn't too bad, but it was still freezing cold and wet.
The Cotopaxi volcano is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world and the second highest summit in Ecuador (after Chimborazo). It is very popular with all sorts of climbers as you don't require any previous mountaineering experience to climb it. It only takes two days, one night to reach the top and there is an 80% chance you will make it to the summit without any previous training. As we had to get back to Quito on Sunday evening we decided not to do the climb to the summit, but we still wanted to climb up to the small refuge (4810 m) where people going all the way to the top (5897 m) stay overnight.
We left Latacunga with our mountain guide Cristian at 8.00am. Our first stop was at a museum right at the entrance of the "Parque Nacional Cotopaxi". There is a little botanical garden in front of the museum to show the type of flora present in the "páramo", which to me looks a bit like the Russian tundra. In terms of fauna there is the Andean cóndor, foxes, rabbits (we saw some), llamas (only domestic animals these days), horses (we saw some too), deer and the rare spectacled bear (we didn't see any). As we had stopped, we took the opportunity to have some coca leaf tea to help us cope with the altitude. Yum! Glad we drank it, as later on we saw some people who were dizzy or nauseous. We were both fine, just out of breath.
The second stop was by the Laguna Limpiopungo a shallow lake at the base of another volcano, the Rumiñahui. This was the only time we saw half of the summit of the Cotopaxi, after that it was too foggy to see anything past a few metres.
After enjoying the sight of some birds and a few rays of sunshine we drove to the parking lot from which we had to climb to the refuge. We decided to go the zig-zag way on the way up and the straight path when coming down. I'd say it took us one hour to climb up and not even 15 minutes (probably 10) to get back down!
It was a great feeling to reach the refuge and I can only imagine what it must feel like to reach the summit on a clear blue sky day. Glad we didn't attempt it though, all we would have seen would have been a mass of white clouds....
The Cotopaxi volcano is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world and the second highest summit in Ecuador (after Chimborazo). It is very popular with all sorts of climbers as you don't require any previous mountaineering experience to climb it. It only takes two days, one night to reach the top and there is an 80% chance you will make it to the summit without any previous training. As we had to get back to Quito on Sunday evening we decided not to do the climb to the summit, but we still wanted to climb up to the small refuge (4810 m) where people going all the way to the top (5897 m) stay overnight.
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| Cotopaxi about to be covered by clouds |
After enjoying the sight of some birds and a few rays of sunshine we drove to the parking lot from which we had to climb to the refuge. We decided to go the zig-zag way on the way up and the straight path when coming down. I'd say it took us one hour to climb up and not even 15 minutes (probably 10) to get back down!
It was a great feeling to reach the refuge and I can only imagine what it must feel like to reach the summit on a clear blue sky day. Glad we didn't attempt it though, all we would have seen would have been a mass of white clouds....
Monday, May 30, 2011
Andean heights
Even though we've already spent a couple of weeks in Quito, walking up the stairs or running uphill is still a massive struggle in the altitude. This weekend was all about going up as we headed to the Central Highlands.
We made the city of Latacunga our base for a couple of days. Latacunga doesn't have much to offer if it wasn't for its strategic location near the Quilotoa Loop and the Cotopaxi National Park. The city has been reconstructed a few times, the last time in 1877 when the Cotopaxi volcano erupted and covered it in lava.
Our first night was spent at a backpackers hostel (Café Hostal Tiana) - there is not a great choice of accommodation in this town and initially Tiana seemed like a good option. Even though t's a great place to meet people and fellow travellers, I was reminded why I'm not 20 y-o: no water AT ALL (not even cold), floorboards which were about to break and banging noises throughout the night... The craziest thing was that only round the corner we found the Hotel Central which was cheaper (18$ for a double room with bathroom), had a lovely lady host who always welcomed us with tea and coffee, and plenty of hot water (an important commodity in this country), so the second night we stayed there.
On Saturday we decided to head to the Laguna de Quilotoa, a stunning turquoise green volcanic-crater lake. Along the way we made a couple of stops, first at Pujilí and then at the Saturday market of Zumbahua (where we could have bought anything from fresh veg, fruit, chickens and many other animals - alive not dead).
At this point you can start noticing the temperature dropping and the cold wind blowing on your face. Zumbahua is 3800m above sea level and the last town before arriving at the Quilotoa Lake.
The lake itself is impressive, just the fact that it sits in the middle of a volcano crater is mind-blowing. Fit walkers can walk the perimeter of the crater in about six hours. We decided to follow the path which leads down to the lake instead. It took us about half an hour to reach the bottom, but nearly an hour and a half to climb back up. Had I known the effort it required, I might have been tempted to employ the services of one of the donkeys we got offered (5$ - 8$ depending on how good you are at bartering)!!
We made the city of Latacunga our base for a couple of days. Latacunga doesn't have much to offer if it wasn't for its strategic location near the Quilotoa Loop and the Cotopaxi National Park. The city has been reconstructed a few times, the last time in 1877 when the Cotopaxi volcano erupted and covered it in lava.
Our first night was spent at a backpackers hostel (Café Hostal Tiana) - there is not a great choice of accommodation in this town and initially Tiana seemed like a good option. Even though t's a great place to meet people and fellow travellers, I was reminded why I'm not 20 y-o: no water AT ALL (not even cold), floorboards which were about to break and banging noises throughout the night... The craziest thing was that only round the corner we found the Hotel Central which was cheaper (18$ for a double room with bathroom), had a lovely lady host who always welcomed us with tea and coffee, and plenty of hot water (an important commodity in this country), so the second night we stayed there.
On Saturday we decided to head to the Laguna de Quilotoa, a stunning turquoise green volcanic-crater lake. Along the way we made a couple of stops, first at Pujilí and then at the Saturday market of Zumbahua (where we could have bought anything from fresh veg, fruit, chickens and many other animals - alive not dead).
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| Zumbahua market |
The lake itself is impressive, just the fact that it sits in the middle of a volcano crater is mind-blowing. Fit walkers can walk the perimeter of the crater in about six hours. We decided to follow the path which leads down to the lake instead. It took us about half an hour to reach the bottom, but nearly an hour and a half to climb back up. Had I known the effort it required, I might have been tempted to employ the services of one of the donkeys we got offered (5$ - 8$ depending on how good you are at bartering)!!
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| Laguna Quilotoa |
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Mallrats and a Spanish-speaking Johnny Depp
So yesterday I had my first mall experience here in Quito. There are three big shopping centres around "el parque de La Carolina" a fairly decent area in the centre / north of Quito.
I would say that quiteños love their shopping and "going to the mall" and the quality of the shops you can find is quite decent. I saw almost all usual international brands: Hugo Boss, Kenneth Cole, Mango, Benetton, .. plus a lot of local designers and outdoor gear shops (North Face, Timberland...). What is surprising is the pricing. I could swear that prices in London are cheaper! At least of the imported brands...
After a few hours of window shopping (had to stop myself from buying anything due to the fact that I will have to carry my rucksack around and I will then regret it...), I met Stu for a cinema date. The chosen film was "Pirates of the Caribbean" - can't believe I have to pay to see a Disney film... Watching Johnny Depp speak with a latin accent put a different spin to the film, but despite the language distraction we did enjoy the film and especially the soundtrack!
I would say that quiteños love their shopping and "going to the mall" and the quality of the shops you can find is quite decent. I saw almost all usual international brands: Hugo Boss, Kenneth Cole, Mango, Benetton, .. plus a lot of local designers and outdoor gear shops (North Face, Timberland...). What is surprising is the pricing. I could swear that prices in London are cheaper! At least of the imported brands...
After a few hours of window shopping (had to stop myself from buying anything due to the fact that I will have to carry my rucksack around and I will then regret it...), I met Stu for a cinema date. The chosen film was "Pirates of the Caribbean" - can't believe I have to pay to see a Disney film... Watching Johnny Depp speak with a latin accent put a different spin to the film, but despite the language distraction we did enjoy the film and especially the soundtrack!
Latin Lovers and Sugar Mamas
Some interesting lessons were learnt last weekend. Or should I say some theory came into reality?
Apart from all the interesting bird information we learnt, we also learnt about some other "bird" behaviour, that is the female of the humans... Our latin lover guide quite happily shared with us some insight into the dating behaviours that goes on in this country.
Firstly, there is a much higher number of solo female travellers in Ecuador than there is of men. A lot of them are volunteers that come over for a couple of months / year.
Secondly, Ecuadorian men (and women) have a different concept of age: Stu and I almost chocked when our guide announced "I'm getting old, I'm 24 years old and I'm starting to notice age." Fair enough he thinks that way when you find out that his girlfriend is 17, an age at which some people start having kids...
Thirdly, it is unbelievable how many of these young guys establish relationships with "gringas" who are travelling around the country or volunteering. The "sugar mamas," as they call them, are not as old as we thought (we got told about a 30 year old Australian lady!!). But the most surprising fact of all is that these highly educated ladies keep sending thousands of $$ to these young men in the hope that they will join them in their countries or fulfil their "studies" dreams. Well, we saw the results of those investments in the shape of $200 walking boots and branded gear...
Hummm, either these ladies are hopeless romantics or they have lost all sense of reality... So there you go, ladies, remember the words "sugar mama" next time you are a solo traveller!
Apart from all the interesting bird information we learnt, we also learnt about some other "bird" behaviour, that is the female of the humans... Our latin lover guide quite happily shared with us some insight into the dating behaviours that goes on in this country.
Firstly, there is a much higher number of solo female travellers in Ecuador than there is of men. A lot of them are volunteers that come over for a couple of months / year.
Secondly, Ecuadorian men (and women) have a different concept of age: Stu and I almost chocked when our guide announced "I'm getting old, I'm 24 years old and I'm starting to notice age." Fair enough he thinks that way when you find out that his girlfriend is 17, an age at which some people start having kids...
Thirdly, it is unbelievable how many of these young guys establish relationships with "gringas" who are travelling around the country or volunteering. The "sugar mamas," as they call them, are not as old as we thought (we got told about a 30 year old Australian lady!!). But the most surprising fact of all is that these highly educated ladies keep sending thousands of $$ to these young men in the hope that they will join them in their countries or fulfil their "studies" dreams. Well, we saw the results of those investments in the shape of $200 walking boots and branded gear...
Hummm, either these ladies are hopeless romantics or they have lost all sense of reality... So there you go, ladies, remember the words "sugar mama" next time you are a solo traveller!
Mindo es lindo
The next morning we woke up at 4.30am to go and see the display of the "cock of the rock" (the funny looking bird below for those of you who like me are not bird experts...). I was very tempted to stay in bed, but once we had climbed another hill and we were "sitting" in the hide, I was pleased to watch and listen how the male cock woes the female. Bird-watching... never thought I could give up my sleep for it!
Not sure how many kilos we lost last weekend, but all our clothes were soaking by the time we had to pack. We were sad to leave Mindo, and if it wasn't for the fact that there are so many other places we want to visit, we would be back there every weekend. Now, the mosquito bites were a souvenir I could have done without....
Monday, May 23, 2011
El Pichincha
That is the volcano located just East of Quito. José took us there one early evening and we went up the TeleferiQo (4100m) not realising how cold it was going to be up there. Brrr...
We want to go back there with better equipment and more time to attempt one of the hikes. The one we did was a fairly easy one which involved a mild climb towards the north of the city below.
La Mitad del Mundo (the Middle of the World)
It had to be done. We couldn't live in Quito and not go to one of the biggest attractions here: the equator.
A local taxi driver, José, who has become our travel adviser, took us there and we shared a fun afternoon with him and his family.
The "Middle of the World" is located north of the centre of Quito. Right next to the famous monument is the Intiñan Solar Museum which claims to be built to mark the true location of the equator. Our guide demonstrated a number of tricks to prove we were right on the equator, but not sure it was all a set up for us "gringos". Having said that it was quite amusing and our lovely guide made it even more enjoyable.
Now I know that the water flushes anti-clockwise in the northern hemisphere and clockwise in the southern hemisphere....
The "Middle of the World" is located north of the centre of Quito. Right next to the famous monument is the Intiñan Solar Museum which claims to be built to mark the true location of the equator. Our guide demonstrated a number of tricks to prove we were right on the equator, but not sure it was all a set up for us "gringos". Having said that it was quite amusing and our lovely guide made it even more enjoyable.
Now I know that the water flushes anti-clockwise in the northern hemisphere and clockwise in the southern hemisphere....
"Observaciones Quiteñas"
Back in Quito we've been trying to get into a routine, but also make the most out of our time here and explore as much as we can.
Here is the view from our flat. We're located just on the edges of La Mariscal, which is the busy, international part of town where most foreigners stay and where most nightclubs, hostels and bars are (!). I really wanted to stay in the Old Town, but it was not convenient for Stu's office commute. This brings me to a couple of observations made during our walks in this city:
1. Traffic in Quito is awful: don't attempt to travel on wheels during rush hour - you will be stuck in traffic for a while.... In fact, they have a system called "Pico y Placa" which tries to regulate traffic by limiting the number of cars allowed during rush hour according to the last number of their number plate...
2. "Perro quiteño" (dogs from Quito) - there seems to be a large number of dogs that look like white fluffy poodles - most of them are dressed up and even wear shoes - no joke.
3. Sweets - Ecuadorians seems to have a sweet tooth and we have come across numerous cake / cream / sweet street sellers. As I am paranoid about my "new" tooth I try to stay away from it all...
4. Fried food - a large number of food seems to be fried: fried bananas, fried corn, "fritada" (one of the main dishes), etc...
5. Friendliness - apart from the lady managing the flat we've rented, everyone here seems to have a very friendly, happy attitude towards foreigners.
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| View from our flat |
1. Traffic in Quito is awful: don't attempt to travel on wheels during rush hour - you will be stuck in traffic for a while.... In fact, they have a system called "Pico y Placa" which tries to regulate traffic by limiting the number of cars allowed during rush hour according to the last number of their number plate...
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| Woman selling dog outfits and "perro quiteño" next to her modelling one |
3. Sweets - Ecuadorians seems to have a sweet tooth and we have come across numerous cake / cream / sweet street sellers. As I am paranoid about my "new" tooth I try to stay away from it all...
4. Fried food - a large number of food seems to be fried: fried bananas, fried corn, "fritada" (one of the main dishes), etc...
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| Fritada |
Following Darwin's Footsteps
What can I say about the Galapagos Islands? It is the most unique, surprising and wild place I have ever been to and I really hope it gets preserved for future generations to enjoy...
We left Quito on the 7th of May with high expectations and butterflies in our tummies. We had booked an eight-day boat trip and, although spending our honeymoon on a boat with 14 other people did bother us for a split second, we really shouldn't have worried. Our fellow passengers were very interesting, intelligent, fun, and most importantly nice, genuine people. Stu and I were the youngest and we quickly established that the profile of the island visitor is most likely as follows:
- biologist or scientist
One of the most amazing things is that animals are not scared of humans, so you can get close to them without them running / swimming / flying away. The National Park authority does a good job to ensure the islands are kept as wild as possible and that visitors make a minimal impact. We were not allowed to bring stuff with us on the island apart from sun cream, water and our cameras – all of which had to be brought back to the boat…. There were also certain rules which had to be followed e.g. no collection of souvenirs (sand, feathers, shells) and no touching animals. And this all makes sense when you can sit next to an albatross, swim alongside a turtle or photograph birds without the need of a mega-huge telephoto lens.
On the third night we got woken up at 12.30am and got told to pack our bags. The ship's engine had broken down and we had to abandon ship. At 2.00am we got rescued by a diving boat. Jumping off a rocky boat in the middle of the Pacific (in the darkness) was not part of the deal, but it added to the adventure and brought the group together. Plus it meant we all got an upgrade to a luxury boat and three new lovely passengers joined us. Can't complain!
- retired with an interest in nature
- mainly American or from the American continent
Our boat was a bit of an exception as 13 of the 16 passengers were Brit nationals. As for our guide, Patricio, he was a very eloquent, funny Ecuadorian chap who made the trip very enjoyable, but also full of interesting facts.
We visited ten islands in total, including Española, Genovesa and Santa Cruz. They are all beautiful and unique. The wildlife that we came across was incredible – blue and red-footed boobies, marine and land iguanas, sea lions and fur seals, albatross, frigate birds, red-billed tropic birds, finches, mockingbirds, sting rays, spotted eagle rays, manta rays, green turtles, giant tortoises, white-tipped and Galapagos sharks to name but a few.
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| Gardner Bay, Española Island |
On the third night we got woken up at 12.30am and got told to pack our bags. The ship's engine had broken down and we had to abandon ship. At 2.00am we got rescued by a diving boat. Jumping off a rocky boat in the middle of the Pacific (in the darkness) was not part of the deal, but it added to the adventure and brought the group together. Plus it meant we all got an upgrade to a luxury boat and three new lovely passengers joined us. Can't complain!Crossing the Equator line
Hola amigos!
After an amazing wedding and an idyllic honeymoon on the Galapagos Islands, Stu and I have now settled in a little studio apartment in Quito, which will be our home for the following weeks. I meant to start writing this blog weeks ago, but we've been doing so many things, taking so many photos and meeting so many lovely people that I simply haven't found the time.
Thank you very much to all our AMAZING friends and family who came to Valencia to share what was for us a perfect day. It was so much fun we didn't want the party to end and we were both very impressed that nearly everyone was still on the dance-floor at 6.00am!
We were both very sad to say good-bye to friends and family who had travelled from afar to share the day with us, but at the same time very excited about the adventure that was about to start.
On the 4th of May we boarded an Iberia flight (terrible customer service if I may add) bound for Quito. And so the story begins...
After an amazing wedding and an idyllic honeymoon on the Galapagos Islands, Stu and I have now settled in a little studio apartment in Quito, which will be our home for the following weeks. I meant to start writing this blog weeks ago, but we've been doing so many things, taking so many photos and meeting so many lovely people that I simply haven't found the time.
Thank you very much to all our AMAZING friends and family who came to Valencia to share what was for us a perfect day. It was so much fun we didn't want the party to end and we were both very impressed that nearly everyone was still on the dance-floor at 6.00am! We were both very sad to say good-bye to friends and family who had travelled from afar to share the day with us, but at the same time very excited about the adventure that was about to start.
On the 4th of May we boarded an Iberia flight (terrible customer service if I may add) bound for Quito. And so the story begins...
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